What we install
The right material for the assembly, not the one with the best margin.
Every system below has a place. Part of the job is knowing which one. Each line says where it belongs and where we'd steer you elsewhere.
Spray Foam
Closed-cell and open-cell spray foam for the assemblies where foam actually earns its cost: rim joists, crawl spaces, metal buildings, cathedral ceilings, and shops.
Right for Rim joists, crawl spaces, steel and post-frame buildings, cathedral ceilings, and any assembly that needs air sealing and insulation in one pass.
Not for Simple vented attics with good access, walls that already have decent batts, and budget jobs where foam on one surface won't change how the house feels.
Pole Barns & Shops
Closed-cell foam sprayed direct to the steel skin of post-frame barns and shops, stopping the condensation drip and making the building cheap to heat.
Right for Post-frame shops, pole barns, and ag buildings with steel roofing and siding, heated or about to be.
Not for Unheated hay or equipment storage where a drip edge and good ventilation solve the condensation problem for less.
Crawl Spaces & Rim Joists
Closed-cell foam on the rim joist and crawl space walls, with a ground vapor barrier, to fix the cold floors and drafts almost every older Williston house has.
Right for Any house with a basement or crawl space and cold floors, drafty baseboards, or frost on the rim in winter.
Not for A crawl space with standing water or a failing foundation, which needs drainage or structural work before insulation will hold up.
New Construction
Foam scheduled into the build: rim joists, roof decks, and flash-and-batt walls sprayed after mechanicals and before drywall, ready for the insulation inspection.
Right for Builders and owner-builders framing houses, shops, and light commercial in Williams County who want a tight envelope that passes the blower door.
Not for A build that is already drywalled, or a simple vented-attic house where blown-in and good batts meet code without foam.
Metal Buildings
Closed-cell foam for steel-framed shops, oilfield service buildings, and commercial metal structures, including removal of failed fiberglass blanket.
Right for Pre-engineered steel buildings, oilfield shops and wash bays, and commercial metal structures that need to stay dry and heatable.
Not for Cold storage with no heat and no moisture load, where a vented shell and a drip-stop membrane do enough.
Blown-In Attic Insulation
Loose-fill fiberglass or cellulose blown to the Climate Zone 7 target of R-60, with the top plates sealed and the eaves baffled before the first bag goes in.
Right for Open attics with a flat or accessible ceiling plane, attic top-ups, and any house that is losing heat through a thin or patchy layer up top.
Not for Cathedral ceilings with no attic, vented attics with active roof leaks, or spaces where wet or contaminated insulation needs to come out first.
Batt and Mineral Wool
Fiberglass batts and mineral wool, cut to fit each cavity with no compression and no gaps, for walls, garages, basements, sound partitions, and flash-and-batt assemblies.
Right for Open framed walls and ceilings where the cavity is accessible, sound walls between rooms, garages, framed basement walls, and fire-rated assemblies that call for mineral wool.
Not for Rim joists, irregular cavities full of wiring, and any assembly where air leakage is the main problem; those want foam or dense-pack instead.
Rigid Foam Board
XPS, EPS, and polyiso board for continuous exterior walls, foundation walls, slab edges, and under-slab, chosen for where it goes and taped so it actually performs.
Right for Exterior wall sheathing, foundation walls inside or out, slab edges, under heated slabs, and any flat surface that needs insulation with no thermal bridges.
Not for Irregular cavities, rim joists with lots of penetrations, or anywhere the board cannot be held flat and taped; foam or batts fit those better.
Air Sealing
Finding and sealing the gaps that let wind push cold air through a house, done before insulation so the insulation can do its job.
Right for Older houses with drafts and uneven rooms, any attic about to be insulated, rim joists, and houses with high heating bills that already have some insulation.
Not for Houses with combustion appliances that have not been checked for proper venting, or spaces so tight already that the next step is mechanical ventilation rather than more sealing.
Insulation Removal
Vacuum removal of old attic and wall insulation that is wet, moldy, smoke-damaged, contaminated, or in the way of a spray foam job, with the space cleaned and ready for new material.
Right for Attics with wet, moldy, or smoke-damaged material, insulation fouled by animal waste, compressed and useless fill, and spaces being prepped for spray foam.
Not for Dry, clean, merely old insulation, which can usually be left in place and topped up, or spaces where the material may contain asbestos, which needs a licensed abatement contractor first.
Commercial Insulation
Spray foam, blown-in, batts, and mineral wool for shops, warehouses, oilfield service buildings, ag buildings, multifamily, and municipal projects, scheduled around the business and documented for inspection.
Right for Metal and post-frame shops, warehouses, service buildings, ag and equipment storage, multifamily and fire-rated assemblies, and public buildings that need a documented install.
Not for Large mechanical or pipe insulation scopes and industrial process insulation, which are specialty trades we do not cover.
Get a quote on the building
Send the basics and an owner comes back with a straight answer on what it needs, what it doesn't, and what it costs.